The Area:
We stayed close to an area called Country Club Plaza. It is an area of shops and restaurants kind of like Michigan Ave. or Rodeo Drive: Coach, Tiffany's, clothing stores, Bang and Olufsen, an Apple Store, Williams Sonoma, and so on. The buildings are older and the whole place is modeled on Seville, Spain. I think it makes it more charming and unusual.

It was within walking distance of our hotel so we found ourselves walking around there quite often. There is a lot to see and explore. We had coffee at a local place a few times. We found a shop that sells really good gelato...so good that we went there three times. My favorite flavors were banana and caramel apple, but the wild berry was good too. I did some window shopping and some real shopping. We did some people watching too. There were quite a few street musicians and that was generally fun. We didn't see any jazz acts, but got a taste of it in various shops and restaurants.
Our hotel was close to two art museums. We walked around both of them one day. The Kemper museum wasn't awesome, but I did enjoy one exhibit: a sort of Choose Your Adventure installation that was witty. The larger museum had a good selection. I saw a couple of Impressionist paintings I hadn't seen before. I learned that I really enjoy the photo-realists.
The hotel was also close to the bus stops. That was handy because it made it relatively easy to get to the zoo. That trip was a bit rocky at first--the entrance off the highway is not set up for pedestrians. The zoo itself is a great experience and was one of the highlights of the trip. My favorite part was the kangaroo surprise. We were walking along and suddenly there were a lot of signs that directed us to stay on the path. We turned a corner and noticed a kangaroo sitting on the path. That led us to see that there were kangaroos all over the place, just hanging out. We got pretty close to a couple of them.

It was pretty awesome. I am glad that we were early enough to get to experience it before there were mobs of people around. Getting there early also helped us to make it through the day--it was pretty damned hot. And the A/C in our hotel room was not quite up to par.
The Food:
There were a couple of places I wanted to be sure to visit. Most of them were successful. I did not like the food at O'Dowd's Little Dublin pub, but the unfiltered wheat beer from a local brewery was fine. We had some very good Chinese food at Bo Ling's. We probably should have participated in the Dim Sum, but I had my heart set on the Sichuan Green Beans (my favorite!) and at first all I could see were a lot of carts of fried dumplings. Later we saw some cool looking veggie dishes and salads...ah well, maybe we'll get back some time.
We had a wonderful lunch at Brio, a Tuscan Grille. I had a Mixed Berry Lemonade (fresh lemons and berries) and ravioli stuffed with mushrooms and sweet gorgonzola with butternut squash and a browned butter sauce. It was so good that I am on a quest to replicate it. That evening we had our anniversary dinner at a classic steak house: The Plaza III. It was a success. We had Kansas City strip steaks, mushrooms, and potatoes. Hard to beat a day like that.
And we had barbecue. It wouldn't be right to go to Kansas City without having some barbecue. We skipped the down home style and went for a well regarded (though consciously more upscale) place: Fiorella's Jack Stack Barbecue. Adam got some beef soup (with burnt ends--brisket pieces, I think) and a prime rib sandwich. I got a ridiculously huge rib sample plate:

There were three kinds of ribs and all three were very good. The beef ribs were my least favorite, but I think that might be because when I think ribs I think pork. The pork ribs were definitely the best. The lamb ribs were really unusual, but in a good way. They are ultimately a bit too fatty for me and the lamb taste is strong (though not muttony). I don't know that I would order them again, but I am glad I tried them once. I must say that the fries were some of the best I've had. I only had a few of them because I wanted to try the other sides. The cole slaw was perfect---though I do admit to liking it sweeter than some do. The baked beans were in barbecue sauce so they were sweet too. I had heard about their cheesy corn bake so I ordered an additional side...but I must say that it was pretty gross. I was expecting something like a corn souffle, but this really was just corn in a cheese sauce. The waiter was awesome and took it off our bill after he found out we didn't like it. Otherwise, the meal was really tasty. My mouth wishes I could have finished more than a quarter or third of the meal, but the rest of me is happy with the relative restraint.
The Train:
Overall, I would say that I enjoyed our train travel. The key is to not be on a schedule because delays seem to be a regular occurrence. Luckily, our delays didn't really hurt. The train leaving Lafayette was late, but our layover in Chicago was a long one. We still had time to grab a pizza at Giordano's (spinach, mushroom, onion, and cheese=delicious) and some dessert before our connection.

The leg to Kansas City was my favorite. The staff was warm and helpful. The seats were comfortable with lots of legroom for Adam and a little footstool I could use. There are electrical outlets all over. The ride is mostly smooth. I could just kick back and take in the sights or read the Kindle (which was perfect, by the way). The landscape is pretty typical midwest (corn, cows, fields), but the Mississippi River was impressive as always. The barge traffic did delay us a bit...we almost missed the last bus of the night at the station in KC.
Our trip back to Chicago was good, but the vibe was definitely more harried. The route goes from Los Angeles to Chicago so these folks had probably been on for a couple of days. Still, there was a bit of the bum rush feel to it. This leg did make good time.
The worst, as always, is the return trip from Chicago to Lafayette. The Hoosier State service is, in a word, ass. The lack of leg room and a beverage/snack car would not be a big deal if the train ever kept on schedule. It does not. My experience with this trip has always been that you leave the station, go for a little bit and then get delayed by freight traffic. No one announces anything, unless you happen to get a conductor who walks by). You just sit and suck it up. I had always traveled in the winter so I had not yet experienced the next layer of joy which is that you get to bake during the wait. This time we had a 45 minute delay, traveled forward for maybe 3 minutes, and then had to sit for another session. But we eventually made it back to Lafayette.
I was glad to get home to the air conditioning, but we had a very good time on our vacation. I am glad to say that despite the Hoosier State run I enjoyed my experience with Amtrak. We may just do this kind of thing again next year...but this time we may try out the sleeper car. Maybe my territorial issues won't be triggered so often.
Though I won't bet on it.




